Finally, it feels like the summer has arrived and it’s definitely time for something a bit lighter. For me, bouillabaisse is the sunny South of France in one big bubbling pot : Pernod, fennel, tomatoes, and succulent seafood. It always smells and tastes like the summer. Bouillabaisse was originally created by the fisherman in the port of Marseille using cheaper types of fish, like eel and rockfish, all the fish they were unable to sell.
The fishermen used to put them all in one big pot, with some fennel and Pernod in order to make a meal of it. It is typically served with some bread and rouille, which is like a mayonnaise made with garlic, saffron and cayenne. The first time I made rouille, I thought I had made far too much, but we happily discovered that it makes a great leftover as a dip with bread, or on a sandwich. Traditionally the broth from the bouillabaisse would be served first with the bread and rouille, and the fish would be served separately as the main meal. I’m a big greedy guts however, and like mine served altogether as one big delicious stew.
A lot of other Mediterranean countries, like Greece, Portugal and Italy have their own version of fish stew or soup. I’ve sampled a few but the French bouillabaisse with the flavour of aniseed and tomato is still my favourite. It is to my absolute shame that I lived close to Marseille for nearly a year, and never sampled Bouillabaisse in Marseilles! Something I will have to rectify someday soon. Meanwhile, this is my own version of Bouillabaisse, it’s a bit more of a luxury bouillabaisse, as I used quite expenisive fish. I stress this is only my interpretation of Bouillabaise, and is very much a simplified version. I know for the real thing, you should use home – made fish stock and beautiful vine ripened tomatoes from France. Alas, I am always short on time and very rarely get round to making my own home made fish stock. So please forgive me Frenchies, for my own quick and easy version!
Here’s how:
Fish Stew
– 1 tablespoon of olive oil
– 2 medium shallots, finely chopped
– 1/2 a medium sized leek, finely chopped
– ½ bulb fennel, thinly sliced
– Salt and pepper
– 2 cloves of garlic, crushed
– 1/4 red chilli, finely chopped
– 1 dessert spoon of tomato paste
– 1 inch piece of orange peel and 1 inch piece of lemon peel
– 2 sprigs of thyme
– 1 small pinch of saffron
– Pinch of sugar
– 1 small bay leaf
– 400g tin of tomatoes
– 500ml of fish stock
– 800g of mixed firm fish (I used hake, cod and halibut)
– 6-8 muscles, scraped clean of barnacles
– 10 langoustines or prawns in the shell
– 2tsp of Pernod (optional)
– 1 teaspoon of chopped fennel herb
Rouille
– 30g dry bread soaked in fish stock (use the fish stock from 500ml’s above)
– 3 cloves garlic, crushed
– 1/4 tsp of chili, chopped finely
– 1/4 teaspoon of cayenne
– 1 egg yolk
– 1/2 teaspoon salt
– 75 ml olive oil
For the rouille, begin by soaking a dry piece of bread (I like to use a slice of stale baguette) in a cupful of fish stock. The bread should soak up the stock in a few minutes. Next place the crushed garlic, finely chopped chili, cayenne, egg yolk and salt into the food processor and blitz until it forms a sticky paste. Add the soaked bread and blitz again. Now, with the motor still running, gradually add the oil, a thin trickle or a few small drops at a time. It’s really important that you add the oil REALLY slowly and that it is well incorporated before adding the next drop. It’s very easy for the mixture to split. Once all the oil is added you should end up with a mayonnaise like substance. Taste and season with more salt, if necessary. Cover the rouille with Clingfilm and place in the fridge until ready to serve.
For the stew, skin the fish and remove any bones with a tweezers. (You can also ask the fish shop to skin and prepare the fish for you). Chop the fish into large bite size chunks. Place in the fridge until ready to use.
Meanwhile heat the olive oil in a large saucepan. Add the chopped shallots, chopped leeks and fennel to the heated oil and sauté until golden. Season with salt and pepper and add the chilli, tomato paste and crushed garlic. Cook for a minute or two before adding the orange and lemon peel, pinch of sugar, saffron, thyme, bay leaf, tinned tomatoes and half the fish stock. Bring to the boil and then reduce to a simmer for twenty minutes. Once the sauce had reduced, add some more fish stock, taste and season. Add the Pernod and cook for a further 5 minutes.
Next add the firm fish (monk fish, hake and halibut), cook for about two minutes before adding the prawns and mussels. Boil until the fish is just cooked, it should only take about 5 minutes. You can now remove the stalks of thyme, orange and lemon peel and bay leaf, or you can just warn your guests not to eat them! Serve with some fresh fennel on top, with some warm crusty bread and some rouille on the side. Tastes delicious with a chilled glass of white wine.
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